Should contest rules allow and act upon 599K QRM reports?

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Elecraft XV144 and Yaesu FT-1000MP MARK-V

Whilst waiting for Elecraft to come up with a solution to the "offset fault", I decided to hook up the XV144 to the MK-V. My set-up is as follows:

Mk-V Menu settings:
3-3 (tr-disp) = 144
4-0 (rf out) = 10
8-4 (FrontEnd) = flat

Mk-V switch settings:
IPO (on)
rx ant (on)

Connections
Mk-V <-> XV144
ant B -> tx in (via 16dB attenuator)
rx ant in <- rx out tx gnd -> key in

I bought a microwave modules 16dB attenuator from Ebay which reduces the menu restricted 10W drive from the Mk-V down to the 250mW required by the XV144 (also capable of 1mW and 5W drive levels by link selection). The result is perfect, with the XV144 responding similarly to the K3/K2 1mW drive.

What is straight away apparent is that the Mk-V drive is 100% stable from first key of the mike (unlike the K3/K2 which ramp up slowly over a 10 second period on first key of the mike, thereafter stable until pwr/band/switch-on event). The Yaesu PA behaviour is so much better than Elecraft have been able to achieve to date. I didn't know if the ramp up in power was the K3/K2 or the XV144 but I now know it's the K3/K2 PA.

On first switch on the signal strength meter went to about S7 due to the MkV rf amplifier "tuned" profile. I toyed with ATT values, but felt the "FLAT" rx profile best, as this combo gave me S0 on the meter with an accassional flicker up to S1....perfect! The rx gain loss caused by engaging the cascaded 500 or 250Hz (2nd and 3rd IF) filters on the MkV can be leveled out by using the MkV "tuned" rf amplifier profile.

There is no mention of transverter operation in the Mk-V manual and very little extra in the FTV-1000 manual, but the methodology of use is that you dial in 28.000 on VFO A then change menu 3-3 to 144. This then calibrates the frequency display to 144.000. To account for the Elecraft "offset fault" I must set VFO A to 27.978 and then set menu 3-3 to 144. This brings up 144.000 on the frequency display and compensates for the Elecraft "offset fault" ...thank you thank you Yaesu! Maybe Elecraft could learn something here.

There seems very little info on the web about this subject so hopefully someone out there finds this useful.

Monday, 10 January 2011

GM0ELP AFS CW 2011

KEY CLICKS, KEY CLICKS, KEY CLICKS

Who could believe that the UK could produce such poor signals in this day and age? I'm tempted to name and shame on this blog (as the clickers had much higher scores than me), but that may be construed as hard cheese. In some cases I had to hunt more than 1KHz to find the clicker. Hopefully someone will have recorded the whole contest and has measured the clickers bandwidths. Feel free to reply with the results :-).

Is it lack of knowledge?
Is it lack of money?
Is it that no-one can get close enough to you to cause rx problems?
Is it deliberate.....?

Thursday, 30 December 2010

Elecraft XV144 Transverter (my review)

Had a quick chat with a local ham (Elvin BBA) on 144MHz using the transverter yesterday and all is well apart from being 2.8KHz low on the frequency display on the K3. Actually there is a menu in the K3 to adjust offset in the firmware, but I'm already fully utilising +9.9KHz offset (max) so I'm actually 12.7KHz off. I thought it was something I had done, but apparently Elecraft's supplied crystal part has questionable accuracy. I got an e-mail from another XV144 user saying he had exactly the same problem until he replaced the Elecraft crystal with one from a local supplier and it came up bang on frequency.

So far the XV144 seems to have a very lively RX. Using my 5 ele yagi in the loft (K3 on SSB, 2.7KHz width) I get a constant S6 of noise on the K3 with no pre-amp. In comparison the IC-275E shows S0 on the same antenna. Switching in the dummy load brings this down to S3 on the K3. I used the Elecraft XG-2 mini module to calibrate the K3 S meter on 10m so the discrepancy must be the with the IF input. Listening to GB3ANG beacon it seems louder on the K3 than the IC275E. On both radios I'm getting QRM that sounds like frying bacon (blooming Christmas lights and toy chargers!) so I would expect some signal strength to be registering. I'll need to take the K3/XV144 somewhere quiet and see what it's like, I might even be able to dispense my ext pre-amp.
I have the crystal oven option and on initial switch on from cold the RX drifts about 1.5KHz in under 10 secs then stabilises. I left the radio sitting listening to GB3ANG for about an hour after initial switch on and when I came back in it was still bang on, so pretty happy with regards stability.

The TX side is typical Elecraft. On first tx after power on or band change it takes 5 secs worth of tx audio before the output power starts ramping up to the set level, 3 secs more tx after that it achieves the set output power level and stays stable.
The manual wants the output set up to be max 20W CW key down into a dummy load (even although the front meter goes up to 30W). When set up like this, on SSB the front meter on the XV144 just peaks to 15W (up to 10W LED on solid, 15W LED flickering) on tx audio. This all seems pretty normal when considering PEP to average power readings. Once calibrated using my external watt meter, the output power LEDs on the XV144 accurately track my average power reading. TX audio is reported as a good representation of my real voice.

We'll have to wait to see what Elecraft can do with the offset problem.

Sunday, 26 December 2010

Elecraft XV144 day 2


Progress continues on the XV144. Now through the boring mass resistor/capacitor fitting and on to the bigger parts. Board is now looking a lot busier. The low quality plastic trimmer supplied with the kit has no possible chance of fitting the hexagonal inductor trimmer pot. I had to 'sharpen' mine to allow an easy fit. I'm taking my time, doing things right and so far haven't made any mistakes. Christmas has been and gone now (thank goodness) so now only have a birthday, a curling match, a new year party and visiting relatives to slow progress :-).

Friday, 24 December 2010

Elecraft XV144










Merry Christmas All,

Working on my XV144 right now. No surface mount stuff to fit, so all similar to any other kit.
Some things to note:

1) Some of the component pads are smaller than normal, so a really fine tip solder iron tip is necessary (0.3MM or smaller), also really fine solder 60/40 0.5mm is a must to avoid shorts/splashes.

2) There are large copper fill areas on the PCB which act like a heat sink which wicks the heat away from the pads. This means solder tends to prefer to stick to the tip of the iron rather than to the pad. The fine iron tip exacerbates this situation. The solution is a proper variable temperature solder station and maybe a fine iron tip (chisel profile?).

3) Not all component leads when bent close to the component body will fit the PCB. The component has to be offered up and leads bent to fit PCB. Takes a bit longer, not as good/easy as the K2.

4) Some of the larger wattage resistors have to be mounted above the PCB to allow air flow all round the component.

5) Elecraft manual is brilliant as usual

Progress so far-

Monday, 29 November 2010

MM3T using Hams4Hams 18m pole -first use

I used my Hams4Hams 18m pole for the first time over the contest weekend (cqww cw 2010).

Normally I use a 10m vertical (fishing pole) monopole for 40m. I usually guy my fishing pole as it gets very thin at the top and the extra weight of wire and tape causes it to bend and sway violently in the wind.

Not so with the Hams4Hams pole. I missed out the top 3 sections as it dwarfed my house and could be seen from the front. Even so, it allowed me to mount my usual 40m vertical, but now 4m above the ground, therefore less losses. The pole is so thick and heavy duty I decided that I wouldn't need guys in this configuration so long as it was lashed to a sturdy fence post. I also mounted a 80m vertical on the same Hams4Hams pole using a centre loaded configuration.

Each section of the pole was pulled out and tightened against the lower section with a slight twisting action (no quality issues here). I made up the pipe clamps with the supplied rubber and heat shrink following the instructions closely and these worked brilliantly, serving to lock the sections securely. The supplied socket screwdriver was too small for the top section clamps but fine for the lower ones.

Small niggles aside I'm very pleased with my purchase, and this year is my highest score on 40/80m. Thanks to Hams4Hams for a serviceable product.

If you are looking for a cheap alternative to Spiderpole look no further.

Sunday, 28 November 2010

MM3T CQWW CW 2010

Only a few more hours to go till the end of the contest. I'm sleep deprived and irksome ;-). Over the contest I've come to hate some exchange behaviour:

1) Why does the station I've just worked insist on a final "tu" after my "tu"? This obiliterates any chance of me quickly working the next station in the pile-up...grrrr!

2) cfm, qsl, ok, etc etc etc why why why? This only serves to confuse an otherwise simple exchange. The stations that do this sometimes give my call and/or their own call twice for no reason. I suspect these people are used to data modes.

3) Straight after my CQ someone sends "?", you just know he's just tuned on to you. Can't he just wait for the next call? I suppose this spoils any chance of me making a QSO and him having to wait?

Rant over, I feel much better now :-). Back to 40m now :-(


Update:
Elecraft K3 performed brilliantly, no problems! I guess all the updates have made it pretty stable now. The ACOM just sat there and took the punishment without a hiccup (as usual). The Hams4Hams pole held up my 40/80m verticals without drama.